Woke up this morning to heat. We'd just gone to sleep four hours earlier, and my tent was an over. I stuffed my sleeping bag, dripping sweat everywhere and scrambled out of my tent to surprisingly cool air. I had slept with the rain fly on and closed, in an attempt to maximize shade, but had instead made my tent twenty degrees hotter than the desert air.
We took down camp and made our way down the ravine to find shade, and ended up laying out our sleeping pads under the bridge, where we slept for several hours. After a late lunch, it was time to filter water and leave. We made it out around five o'clock and hiked through the desert as the day cooled off.
This is the first time I've been in Real Desert. Wide open spaces stretched all the way to the mountains far off in the distance. There were Joshua Trees everywhere, and the ground was carpeted with what looked like dry grass. We hiked up hillsides in the deepening shade and made our way into the mountains just before nightfall. After dinner at a creek, we set off in the dark.
Nighthiking is treacherous. My headlamp, which works fine for writing and reading in my tent, barely illuminated the trail, and I found myself unable to see the gradient of the terrain. I stumbled for a few miles before shutting it off and letting the moonlight show me the way. We pushed up sandy hills while the wind, strong and brutal, blew grainy gusts in our faces relentlessly. Physically, it was still much easier than hiking in the heat of daytime, but the strain of focusing on every step was mentally very tiring.
We set up camp at around one a.m. under a tree up in the hills. Hopefully, tomorrow will be all downhill. We're going into Mojave, but there could still be ten miles between us and town and the desert heats up fast in the morning. G'Night.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Saturday, May 30--Day 38
Woke up at six, out at seven. It was a late start today, but we weren't pushing far. Eight miles over some smallish hill, the last heave of earth before finally slipping down into the desert quietly and easily. We found ourselves at Hiker Town around noon. Hiker Town is a house with a big yard. There are chickens and ducks running around all over the place, and inexplicably, an old western-style town. The town may have been built as a movie set. I don't know.
We sat around from noon to five, avoiding the midday heat. During that time, a chick fell into a water trough and was beating his tiny useless wings furiously and squeaking loudly, trying in vain to climb out. I scooped a hand under him and rescued him. That chick owes me a life debt.
At six we packed up and hiked out, the sun set beautifully, and we followed a dirt road as the warm breezes changed to cool breezes. We were night hiking soon enough, and the road seemed to go on forever. The stars were beautiful, though. Nights like this fill me with a nostalgia that I can't really explain.
We set up camp just short of Cottonwood Creek Bridge, which means we're 534 miles in, which means we're 1/5 of the way done! Yeah!
We sat around from noon to five, avoiding the midday heat. During that time, a chick fell into a water trough and was beating his tiny useless wings furiously and squeaking loudly, trying in vain to climb out. I scooped a hand under him and rescued him. That chick owes me a life debt.
At six we packed up and hiked out, the sun set beautifully, and we followed a dirt road as the warm breezes changed to cool breezes. We were night hiking soon enough, and the road seemed to go on forever. The stars were beautiful, though. Nights like this fill me with a nostalgia that I can't really explain.
We set up camp just short of Cottonwood Creek Bridge, which means we're 534 miles in, which means we're 1/5 of the way done! Yeah!
Friday, May 29th-Day 37
-Woke up this morning and took down camp fairly quickly for an early start. The trail took us gradually uphill all morning, until just before lunch, when it lunged upwards into shadeless, breezeless, breathless, relentless heat.
Just as things were becoming unbearable, the trail evened out and we saw the Red Rock Water Tank up a hill to the right. A quick climb later and we found ourselves at the perfect spot for lunch. Amazingly, after we finished eating, dark clouds rolled in and the temperature dropped ten or fifteen degrees. Then, rail began to fall. Rain. I hadn't seen a drop fall out of the sky since Michigan. There wasn't much, just a brief sprinkling, and then it was over. We hiked out, and the clouds stayed all day, providing us with much needed shade.
Not long after lunch, we heard the sound of engines roaming nearby. I was just thinking that there must be a road soon, when a jackass on a dirt bike rounded the corner ahead of me and stopped just short of ending my hike real fast. We stepped off the trail as three other bikers ground to a halt, all surprised to see hikers on a no-motor-vehicles hiking trail. We let them pass, warning that there were other hikers not far behind us. Chumps.
Another few miles, and the trail finally took a downhill turn. It switched back and forth along the mountainside until evening out just before a paved road. We found a great place to set up camp, and relaxed for the rest of the evening. 25 miles today, and we passed the 500 mile mark. We're really doing this. 'Night!
Just as things were becoming unbearable, the trail evened out and we saw the Red Rock Water Tank up a hill to the right. A quick climb later and we found ourselves at the perfect spot for lunch. Amazingly, after we finished eating, dark clouds rolled in and the temperature dropped ten or fifteen degrees. Then, rail began to fall. Rain. I hadn't seen a drop fall out of the sky since Michigan. There wasn't much, just a brief sprinkling, and then it was over. We hiked out, and the clouds stayed all day, providing us with much needed shade.
Not long after lunch, we heard the sound of engines roaming nearby. I was just thinking that there must be a road soon, when a jackass on a dirt bike rounded the corner ahead of me and stopped just short of ending my hike real fast. We stepped off the trail as three other bikers ground to a halt, all surprised to see hikers on a no-motor-vehicles hiking trail. We let them pass, warning that there were other hikers not far behind us. Chumps.
Another few miles, and the trail finally took a downhill turn. It switched back and forth along the mountainside until evening out just before a paved road. We found a great place to set up camp, and relaxed for the rest of the evening. 25 miles today, and we passed the 500 mile mark. We're really doing this. 'Night!
Thursday, May 28th--Day 36
After three helpings of pancakes this morning, another nap in the hammock shortly thereafter, and a trip to the store for a 2-liter bottle of Sunny Delight (I want the empty bottle for increased water capacity), we finally made our goodbyes and got a ride out to the trail head. The late afternoon sun was still hot, and the trail took off on an immediate climb up into the hills, but we soon made our way over the top and coasted an easy eight miles to a water cache, where we set camp for the night. It's been a short day.
I feel that I should talk about Trail Angels. Trail Angels are people who go out of their way to supply hikers with resources beyond their normal means, and to otherwise help in any way they can. Usually, this includes resupplying water caches and offering rides, but sometimes a Trail Angel will put up hikers in their home. All of this is free. Although donations are grudgingly accepted. I've met some really wonderful people doing this. I didn't like in general before I came out here, but I can feel that starting to change. I don't know if there's a better gift that can be given than restoring one's faith in humanity.
There's a creature rustling the tall grass about ten feet away from my tent. I can hear it, but I can't see it. If it comes out, I only hope that's it's cute, and not horrifying. G'Night.
I feel that I should talk about Trail Angels. Trail Angels are people who go out of their way to supply hikers with resources beyond their normal means, and to otherwise help in any way they can. Usually, this includes resupplying water caches and offering rides, but sometimes a Trail Angel will put up hikers in their home. All of this is free. Although donations are grudgingly accepted. I've met some really wonderful people doing this. I didn't like in general before I came out here, but I can feel that starting to change. I don't know if there's a better gift that can be given than restoring one's faith in humanity.
There's a creature rustling the tall grass about ten feet away from my tent. I can hear it, but I can't see it. If it comes out, I only hope that's it's cute, and not horrifying. G'Night.
Monday, June 22, 2009
Wednesday, May 27th--Day 35
Seven easy miles from our camp at Oasis Cache, and we hit a highway, where a wonderful woman picked us up and drove us to the Andersons' house, Casa de Luna.
The Andersons have something of a reputation amongst PCT hikers. They're known for wild parties, and we weren't sure what to expect. Fortunately or unfortunately, we arrived on sort of an off day. No one seemed to be able to work up enough enthusiasm for chocolate syrup twister, and we arrived a few days late for oil wrestling, although we did see the slide show.
After a brief nap in a hammock and a delicious taco salad dinner, we sat in the front yard around a fire and let the day turn into night. I got to play the guitar and sing, and of course drink beer and cactus coolers. Altogether, it was a great night, just my type of party.
Tomorrow, there will be pancakes, and we're going to try to leave, although Terri Anderson will try to convince us to stay another night. It might be an easy job for her. G'Night.
The Andersons have something of a reputation amongst PCT hikers. They're known for wild parties, and we weren't sure what to expect. Fortunately or unfortunately, we arrived on sort of an off day. No one seemed to be able to work up enough enthusiasm for chocolate syrup twister, and we arrived a few days late for oil wrestling, although we did see the slide show.
After a brief nap in a hammock and a delicious taco salad dinner, we sat in the front yard around a fire and let the day turn into night. I got to play the guitar and sing, and of course drink beer and cactus coolers. Altogether, it was a great night, just my type of party.
Tomorrow, there will be pancakes, and we're going to try to leave, although Terri Anderson will try to convince us to stay another night. It might be an easy job for her. G'Night.
Tuesday, May 25--Day 34
We finally did leave, after some unfortunate delays. I was sort of dreading today's hike, because my trekking poles had become accidentally mixed in with loads of things that other hikers had-
The Andersons, another set of Trail Angels, live twenty five miles up the trail from the Saufleys. The day before yesterday, someone with a truck offered to take a big load ahead to Casa de Luna, where the Andersons live. Many of the hikers put all of the gear they wouldn't need for a single day's hike in garbage bags, with the idea that they could hike the twenty five miles quickly and easily with light packs. Then they put the garbage bags over by the front gate, which is exactly where I'd left my poles. So, my poles are at Casa de Luna, and I am not.
The trail today took us up some fairly steep, long inclines, made tougher by my lack of poles, but it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it'd be, and I think I spent more of the day walking easy downhill slopes than trudging upwards.
We set up camp at the Oasis water cache, which we found decorated with plastic skeletons, an inflatable flamingo and monkey, and a stuffed parrot. Sitting amidst the water jugs is a large cooler full of pop and beer, and the elusive cactus cooler, the best pop I've ever tasted. This is a good campsite. 'Night!
The Andersons, another set of Trail Angels, live twenty five miles up the trail from the Saufleys. The day before yesterday, someone with a truck offered to take a big load ahead to Casa de Luna, where the Andersons live. Many of the hikers put all of the gear they wouldn't need for a single day's hike in garbage bags, with the idea that they could hike the twenty five miles quickly and easily with light packs. Then they put the garbage bags over by the front gate, which is exactly where I'd left my poles. So, my poles are at Casa de Luna, and I am not.
The trail today took us up some fairly steep, long inclines, made tougher by my lack of poles, but it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it'd be, and I think I spent more of the day walking easy downhill slopes than trudging upwards.
We set up camp at the Oasis water cache, which we found decorated with plastic skeletons, an inflatable flamingo and monkey, and a stuffed parrot. Sitting amidst the water jugs is a large cooler full of pop and beer, and the elusive cactus cooler, the best pop I've ever tasted. This is a good campsite. 'Night!
Monday, May 25th--Day 33
We did not hike out today, partly because of Tom and Jerry's shins, or shin splints, and partly because taking an extra day here was not an unattractive proposition.
This place reminds me of the dorms in college. Hikers are everywhere, sitting and eating, drinking, watching videos in the trailer, talking in lawn chairs in the shade playing the guitar and singing for each other. There's a relaxed sort of energy here that intrigues me. I spent much of the day today finishing To Kill A Mockingbird in a hammock. I'm gonna be honest, I was teary-eyed at a few points in that story. It is a very, very good book.
The horses here, I found out, are Percheron Draft Horses, an ancient breed used by the Romans as war horses. I don't know if I spelled Percheron right. The male, Rick, is huge and black, and used to work at Disneyland, before he was retired for being scared of balloons. The female, Emma is white and also huge, and has something of an attitude. She means well, but if she shoves me with her head again, we're going to fight. I will battle a horse. I told her that.
I think we're actually leaving tomorrow. Night!
This place reminds me of the dorms in college. Hikers are everywhere, sitting and eating, drinking, watching videos in the trailer, talking in lawn chairs in the shade playing the guitar and singing for each other. There's a relaxed sort of energy here that intrigues me. I spent much of the day today finishing To Kill A Mockingbird in a hammock. I'm gonna be honest, I was teary-eyed at a few points in that story. It is a very, very good book.
The horses here, I found out, are Percheron Draft Horses, an ancient breed used by the Romans as war horses. I don't know if I spelled Percheron right. The male, Rick, is huge and black, and used to work at Disneyland, before he was retired for being scared of balloons. The female, Emma is white and also huge, and has something of an attitude. She means well, but if she shoves me with her head again, we're going to fight. I will battle a horse. I told her that.
I think we're actually leaving tomorrow. Night!
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