Today was much better than yesterday.
We packed up camp at around six-thirty and took off uphill. I messed up my food budget after Idyllwild, so I skipped breakfast and trudged through to lunch. Steve gave me some beef jerky to tide me over. He's a cool dude.
After lunch, we hit a good stride. The area around us had changed dramatically from yesterday's hot, dry, shadeless canyons. We found ourselves traveling along mountainsides well shaded by trees, with cool breezes pushing us along.
At around three, we hit a water cache supplied by either nature's inn or the hostel in Big Bear. Just as we were leaving, we ran into the managers of the hostel, who pulled up in a truck to refill the cache. We ran into them again a mile down the trail at another cache. This one had coolers full of bananas, apples, grapes, and cookies. There was even a beat-up recliner facing the view of the mountain. The hostel manager had a dog, a big German Shepard/wolf named Chief. I put my hand near him to pet him, and he growled loudly. I thought about punching him, but did not.
After the water cache, we hit our groove and covered a lot of ground in a short amount of time. By we, I mean Tom, Steve, and I. We left Jerry far behind, and now it is nighttime, and he has not found our camp. I hope he's alright out there on his own, the poor dear.
'Night.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Sunday, May 10th -- Day 18
- What a day!
Another late start, then three hours in the rising heat until we hit a gorgeous stream, complete with a small waterfall. We stripped down to boxers and laid down in the water. It was awesome. Had lunch there, and moved on.
Then, everything started to suck. The sun was glaring down, and, although the trail followed the stream all day, criss-crossing over it, there seemed to be little long-term relief. As evening approached, I took the lead. Coming up a hill, I suddenly heard something that sounded exactly like an automatic sprinkler. I stopped and looked around, bewildered.. Then I saw a rattlesnake, like, three feet away. Bravely, I yelled and leapt back. Tom threw rocks at it until it moved far enough away for us to pass safely. Half an hour later, the same sound shot out, and there was another one to my right. This one was coiled and ready. I walked past carefully, and he drew back, preparing to strike. Made it safely away and hiked on.
As the day faded, we ran into several other hikers in a dry creek bed, and made dinner, which was good because I was completely out of energy. After dinner, we packed back on and started a sudden ascent through the San Bernadino National Forest. The sun set, and we pulled out our headlamps for night hiking. The trees formed a canopy, and the mountains around us formed a basin that we climbed over the next three hours. The air got colder, and the mountains became black shapes against a starry sky. We finally made it up to a sandy lot, and set up camp. It's actually quite cold, and my fingers are numb, so goodnight!
Another late start, then three hours in the rising heat until we hit a gorgeous stream, complete with a small waterfall. We stripped down to boxers and laid down in the water. It was awesome. Had lunch there, and moved on.
Then, everything started to suck. The sun was glaring down, and, although the trail followed the stream all day, criss-crossing over it, there seemed to be little long-term relief. As evening approached, I took the lead. Coming up a hill, I suddenly heard something that sounded exactly like an automatic sprinkler. I stopped and looked around, bewildered.. Then I saw a rattlesnake, like, three feet away. Bravely, I yelled and leapt back. Tom threw rocks at it until it moved far enough away for us to pass safely. Half an hour later, the same sound shot out, and there was another one to my right. This one was coiled and ready. I walked past carefully, and he drew back, preparing to strike. Made it safely away and hiked on.
As the day faded, we ran into several other hikers in a dry creek bed, and made dinner, which was good because I was completely out of energy. After dinner, we packed back on and started a sudden ascent through the San Bernadino National Forest. The sun set, and we pulled out our headlamps for night hiking. The trees formed a canopy, and the mountains around us formed a basin that we climbed over the next three hours. The air got colder, and the mountains became black shapes against a starry sky. We finally made it up to a sandy lot, and set up camp. It's actually quite cold, and my fingers are numb, so goodnight!
Saturday, May 9th -- Day 17
- Full moon tonight. The moon is spectacularly bright here, and bathes our campsite in light.
It turns out that we hiked about thirty miles yesterday. Big day. Today we hiked 17 or 18, and I don't feel bad at all about not breaking 20. We made our own trail through a stretch of desert where there was none, and found coolers full of pop under a bridge. After relaxing for a short while, we moved on. The terrain was pretty flat for once, but the rising heat made it unenjoyable. At around noon, we came across the Mesa wind farm. Bottles of water had been left out next to a huge truck that several hikers were relaxing under. I had lunch, then crawled into the shade beneath the truck and dozed for a while.
After nap time, Tom, Jerry, Steve, Bactrack (another hiker. Duh) and I took off for the hills at a pretty good pace, which slowed dramatically as we hit the trail approaching San Gorgonio Pass. Te ground was sandy, giving way under each step, and the trail switched back and forth at hideous angles. This section, however, was short, and we made it through the pass to strong winds and firm ground on a steady descent. I'm not kidding about the strong winds. We were getting blasted, and I had to struggle to stay on the trail. Finally, we made it to a stream? River? It's flowing fast and powerful, and I've never been so happy to see flowing water in my life. We set up camp in the sand of a dry creek bed close by, and made dinner. I had a chicken dumpling backpacker's pantry meal, and it was the most fulfilling camp dinner I've ever had. I'm not stuffed, but it just felt so good to eat that mess.
Anyway, stars are out and beautiful. I'm sleeping without the fly on my tent tonight.
G'night.
It turns out that we hiked about thirty miles yesterday. Big day. Today we hiked 17 or 18, and I don't feel bad at all about not breaking 20. We made our own trail through a stretch of desert where there was none, and found coolers full of pop under a bridge. After relaxing for a short while, we moved on. The terrain was pretty flat for once, but the rising heat made it unenjoyable. At around noon, we came across the Mesa wind farm. Bottles of water had been left out next to a huge truck that several hikers were relaxing under. I had lunch, then crawled into the shade beneath the truck and dozed for a while.
After nap time, Tom, Jerry, Steve, Bactrack (another hiker. Duh) and I took off for the hills at a pretty good pace, which slowed dramatically as we hit the trail approaching San Gorgonio Pass. Te ground was sandy, giving way under each step, and the trail switched back and forth at hideous angles. This section, however, was short, and we made it through the pass to strong winds and firm ground on a steady descent. I'm not kidding about the strong winds. We were getting blasted, and I had to struggle to stay on the trail. Finally, we made it to a stream? River? It's flowing fast and powerful, and I've never been so happy to see flowing water in my life. We set up camp in the sand of a dry creek bed close by, and made dinner. I had a chicken dumpling backpacker's pantry meal, and it was the most fulfilling camp dinner I've ever had. I'm not stuffed, but it just felt so good to eat that mess.
Anyway, stars are out and beautiful. I'm sleeping without the fly on my tent tonight.
G'night.
Friday, May 8th -- Day 16
Today was, so far, the most physically challenging day of my life.
Woke up at 5:15 to a shout from Steve, another hiker we camped with last night. Took way too long taking down camp, but we were moving by six-thirty. We crossed deep snow drifts, and lost the trail a few times, although not for long. After we crossed Fuller Ridge, it was finally time to descend. Tom and I pulled far ahead and started making our way down the mountain. We'd been under the impression that the trail leading to the desert floor would probably be about seven miles. It turned into a much longer hike. The trail led around a basin at a very, very gradual decline, switching back every once in a great while. We could see a town far below that never seemed to get any closer, no matter how far we'd gone. As the sun set, we pulled out our headlamps for night hiking. I saw a tarantula, and another spider that I can only describe as truly horrifying. Altogether, it took us about five hours to make our way down to the desert floor. Legs were killing me. We found a note at the bottom telling PCT hikers that there was water at a certain address. We followed the directions to the house and found two men sitting on a deck watching a baseball game that was on TV inside. Tom and I sat with them and a woman came out and offered us cold drinks if we rooted for the Angels. Of course, we did. After demolishing big cups of lemonade, a bowl of peanuts, and a box of M&Ms, we made our goodbyes and headed to their garden hose to fill up our water bottles. There, we found a cooler full of oranges, which we pigged out on.
Also, I found a big rock that looks like a shark! I took a picture.
G'night!
Woke up at 5:15 to a shout from Steve, another hiker we camped with last night. Took way too long taking down camp, but we were moving by six-thirty. We crossed deep snow drifts, and lost the trail a few times, although not for long. After we crossed Fuller Ridge, it was finally time to descend. Tom and I pulled far ahead and started making our way down the mountain. We'd been under the impression that the trail leading to the desert floor would probably be about seven miles. It turned into a much longer hike. The trail led around a basin at a very, very gradual decline, switching back every once in a great while. We could see a town far below that never seemed to get any closer, no matter how far we'd gone. As the sun set, we pulled out our headlamps for night hiking. I saw a tarantula, and another spider that I can only describe as truly horrifying. Altogether, it took us about five hours to make our way down to the desert floor. Legs were killing me. We found a note at the bottom telling PCT hikers that there was water at a certain address. We followed the directions to the house and found two men sitting on a deck watching a baseball game that was on TV inside. Tom and I sat with them and a woman came out and offered us cold drinks if we rooted for the Angels. Of course, we did. After demolishing big cups of lemonade, a bowl of peanuts, and a box of M&Ms, we made our goodbyes and headed to their garden hose to fill up our water bottles. There, we found a cooler full of oranges, which we pigged out on.
Also, I found a big rock that looks like a shark! I took a picture.
G'night!
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Thursday, May 7th -- Day 15
- Back on the trail. We slept in 'til around seven, and then took way too long cleaning up and packing to meet our 8 a.m ride, so we decided to leave around noon. This gave me time to completely empty my pack, reorganize my things, and throw away or discard to the hiker box any items that I don't need. After realizing that there were still things to be done in town, and the 12:00 time of departure drawing near, we pushed it back 'til 2:30.
Got a lot done in town. We sent out a box of things that we don't need anymore, picked up some long-sleeved dress shirts (sun protection in the desert) and some books (!) from a thrift shop, weighed our packs at the outfitter's (45 lbs. with 5 days food and two liters water) --
I just became bored while writing that stuff. Here are the important things, in list form:
*Devil's Slide wasn't as tough an ascent as I'd feared.
*My lungs aren't used to this altitude, which makes hiking up here a slow, gasping, breathless chore.
*Despite the altitude thing, despite the fact that I broke one stake and bent another trying to hammer them into this mountain, despite the cuts, scrapes, pains, sweat, dirt, and awful smells, I am so glad to be back on this stupid trail. I can't figure out why. I just feel, right now, like this is the most real and meaningful thing I can remember doing in my life.
Bedtime. 'Night!
Got a lot done in town. We sent out a box of things that we don't need anymore, picked up some long-sleeved dress shirts (sun protection in the desert) and some books (!) from a thrift shop, weighed our packs at the outfitter's (45 lbs. with 5 days food and two liters water) --
I just became bored while writing that stuff. Here are the important things, in list form:
*Devil's Slide wasn't as tough an ascent as I'd feared.
*My lungs aren't used to this altitude, which makes hiking up here a slow, gasping, breathless chore.
*Despite the altitude thing, despite the fact that I broke one stake and bent another trying to hammer them into this mountain, despite the cuts, scrapes, pains, sweat, dirt, and awful smells, I am so glad to be back on this stupid trail. I can't figure out why. I just feel, right now, like this is the most real and meaningful thing I can remember doing in my life.
Bedtime. 'Night!
Monday, May 25, 2009
Wednesday, May 6th -- Day 14
- Short entry tonight.
We zeroed in Idyllwild and hung around town all day. Good people, good food, good memories, I'm sure. Saw Wolverine at the movie theatre. Yes, the writing was kind of bad, but lots of things blew up, and Hugh Jackman cut people up, which is what I went there to see.
Had a campfire (our first) after the movie, and a pack of hikers that we didn't know materialized out of the darkness with beer.
At midnight, Tom and I brought out a cake and a card signed by all the thru-hikers we could find for Jerry's Birthday, which is technically now. More good times, and lots of talking around the campfire.
Today deserves much more writing than I'm bothering with, but it's very late, and we have lots of cleaning up to do before leaving tomorrow morning. So goodnight!
We zeroed in Idyllwild and hung around town all day. Good people, good food, good memories, I'm sure. Saw Wolverine at the movie theatre. Yes, the writing was kind of bad, but lots of things blew up, and Hugh Jackman cut people up, which is what I went there to see.
Had a campfire (our first) after the movie, and a pack of hikers that we didn't know materialized out of the darkness with beer.
At midnight, Tom and I brought out a cake and a card signed by all the thru-hikers we could find for Jerry's Birthday, which is technically now. More good times, and lots of talking around the campfire.
Today deserves much more writing than I'm bothering with, but it's very late, and we have lots of cleaning up to do before leaving tomorrow morning. So goodnight!
Monday, May 18, 2009
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)

